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Part of the North Coast 500 takes you from Thurso to Durness — or the other way around, depending on your route. The scenery along this stretch is gorgeous, so make sure you stop often to take it all in. And trust me, it only gets more dramatic as you continue down the west coast!
While there aren’t loads of attractions between Thurso and Durness, the landscape changes beautifully — shifting from the flatter east coast to rolling hills, rugged cliffs, and some of the most stunning white-sand beaches in the Highlands.
A few years ago, I actually lived in one of the towns along the NC500 route, which means I picked up plenty of insider knowledge. In this guide, I’m sharing it all — from the best stops to where to eat and stay — to help you plan the perfect journey between Thurso and Durness.
Overview of the NC500 Route from Thurso to Durness
Distance and Travel Time from Thurso to Durness
Driving directly from Thurso to Durness takes around 2 hours and 10 minutes without stops, covering 71 miles.
It’ll almost definitely take longer than the estimated drive time — and honestly, it should. If you’re only doing the NC500 once, you’ll want to stop often and enjoy as many of the incredible spots along this stretch as you can.
To fully enjoy this part of the NC500, I’d recommend setting aside one full day if you’re doing the route in 5 or 7 days, or two full days if you have a bit more time. It gives you the freedom to explore all the best stops without having to rush.
🚗 Alternative options: If you’re short on time, consider joining this 3-Day NC500 tour from Inverness or doing the North East 250 instead. This shorter road trip loops around beautiful Aberdeenshire and still delivers an adventure that’s every bit as epic.
Driving from Thurso to Durness: Routes and Tips
The easiest way to travel from Thurso to Durness is by driving — whether you’re in a car, campervan, or motorbike. If you don’t have your own vehicle, there are plenty of car hire options in Inverness to get you ready for your adventure.
Driving is hands down the best way to experience the NC500. It gives you the freedom to take detours, make spontaneous trips, and explore at your own pace without being tied to public transport schedules.
From Thurso to Durness, you’ll follow the A836 and A838 roads. Unlike the wider, well-maintained roads between Inverness and Thurso, these roads are narrower but generally still in good condition. You’ll encounter a few single-track stretches — here’s a key tip: if another vehicle is approaching, the driver closest to a passing place is expected to pull in, which may sometimes mean reversing. Just take your time and stay alert!
And most importantly, in the UK, we drive on the left-hand side! For more driving tips and advice for tackling the NC500, be sure to check out my comprehensive NC500 guide.
Bus Options from Thurso to Durness
If you’re not driving, you can take the 803 bus from Thurso to Durness. The service only runs on Saturdays, so make sure to check the schedule in advance if you’re planning to use it. The journey takes around two hours and 20 minutes, with an astonishing 82 potential stops along the route — a bit excessive, but good for sightseeing along the way.
Taking the bus is a more relaxed (if less adventurous) way to experience this stretch of the NC500. You can sit back, unwind, and take in the spectacular scenery from the comfort of your seat.
Train Travel from Thurso to Durness
I wanted to include this for anyone thinking about taking the train from Thurso to Durness — unfortunately, it’s not possible. You’d have to backtrack halfway from Thurso to Inverness and then switch to a bus, which would take an incredibly long time and isn’t really practical.
Things to See and Do Along the Thurso to Durness Route
Charming Towns Along the Thurso to Durness Route
As you make your way along the NC500 from Thurso to Durness, you’ll pass through charming little villages like Reay, Dounreay, Strathy, Bettyhill, and Tongue. Each has populations of around 500 or fewer, so life here moves at a slower pace.
While there isn’t a huge amount to see or do, taking a break for a short stroll or a cosy coffee is always a welcome way to embrace the local atmosphere.
Castles to Visit Between Thurso and Durness
There aren’t many castles along this stretch of the NC500, but here are two worth popping by for a wee explore.
- Castle of Mey: Scotland’s most northerly inhabited castle lies just west of John o’Groats. Once the Queen Mother’s autumn retreat, it’s been beautifully restored and is open to visitors from 1st May–30th September. To explore the castle, gardens and grounds costs £17.60 for an adult ticket. For a unique experience, spend the night at The Granary Lodge on the grounds.
- Castle Varrich: This small ruined castle sits atop a hill just a mile west of Tongue. Reaching it involves about an hour’s hike from the Castle Varrich parking area, but the effort is well worth it for sweeping views of Ben Hope, Ben Loyal, and the Kyle of Tongue. Steeped in history, the castle is over a thousand years old and was once the ancient seat of the chief of Clan MacKay. Legend has it that caves beneath the site were once used by the MacKays, adding an extra layer of intrigue to this atmospheric ruin.
Distilleries on the Thurso to Durness Route
- Wolfburn Distillery: Located in Thurso, Wolfburn is the most northerly distillery on mainland UK, with roots dating back to 1821. They offer a 1.5-hour distillery tour for £19.50 per person, which includes tastings of five of their whiskeys.
- North Point Distillery: If you’re looking to branch out from whiskey, North Point, just outside Thurso, is a must-visit. They produce small-batch, sustainable Scottish spirits, including whiskey, rum, and gin. Their 1.5-hour tour, priced at £35 per person, offers a behind-the-scenes look at the distillery and the chance to sample a selection of their expertly crafted spirits.
Beaches Between Thurso and Durness
You’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to stunning white sandy beaches along this stretch of the NC500!
- Farr Bay: Located near Bettyhill, this beach has the perfect conditions for water sports! Though you’ll need to bring your own gear, as there’s no rental on site. Nearby, a horse trekking centre named “Torrisdale Stables” also offers beach rides all year-round for something different. And if this isn’t enough, apparently otters, seals, and golden eagles are commonly spotted here – so keep your eyes peeled!
- Ceannabeinne Beach: A stunning beach near Durness with soft white sand and beautiful turquoise waters. All of which is set against a backdrop of rocky pink cliffs that rise to Beinn Ceannabeinne, a 383-metre peak. There’s a great viewpoint at the beach for soaking in the stunning scenery, and for those seeking a bit of adventure, you can go ziplining here (more on that later!).
- Durness Beach: Often hailed as one of the UK’s best beaches, this is a must-visit. Take in the views from the Sango Bay Viewpoint, and if you’re lucky enough to get a sunny Scottish day, it’s a perfect spot for a BBQ (just don’t forget some warm layers!).
- Balnakeil beach: Wider than the nearby beaches, Balnakeil sits close to Durness and Cape Wrath. Featuring expansive dunes and a west-facing shoreline, it makes for the perfect spot to catch breathtaking sunsets.
Hikes and Scenic Views
- Kyle of Tongue: The views over the hilly landscape are absolutely breathtaking. It’s the ideal spot for a quiet stop to enjoy a cup of tea and soak in the scenery.
- Cape Wrath: When I visited Durness on my own NC500 trip, we kept hearing loud bangs. After a chat with a local, we discovered that Cape Wrath is used as a military training area — so if you hear explosions, that’s probably why! Due to its remote location, the only way to reach Cape Wrath is by ferry or the Cape Wrath Minibus. At the top, you’ll find a lighthouse, a small cafe, and some truly unforgettable views.
- Loch Eriboll: This long, sheltered sea loch has a fascinating maritime history, often used as a safe anchorage during storms. Make sure you don’t miss Ard Neakie — an almost-island connected to the east shore by a narrow strip of land, complete with a little stone house and gorgeous views.
- Faraid Head: Walking this route takes around two hours and leads you through some of Durness’s most beautiful scenery – from sweeping white-sand beaches to rolling dunes that feel a world away from everything. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife – puffins, seals, and even minke whales can be spotted here.
- Ben Loyal: Standing at 2,507 feet, Ben Loyal isn’t quite a Munro, but its distinctive profile makes it a difficult climb. Located about a 10-minute drive from Tongue, the hike takes roughly 5.5–6.5 hours and rewards you with 360-degree views of the surrounding landscape. This hike is best attempted by experts and only in summer, as Scottish winter conditions can be treacherous.
- Ben Hope: This is the most northerly Munro on mainland UK, standing at 3,041 feet. Starting from a car park in Strathmore, the hike takes around 4–6 hours, rewarding you with spectacular views from the summit. Summer is the safest season to attempt this climb, as winter weather can be extremely dangerous.
The Most Northerly Points of the Route
The most northerly points on mainland UK sit just beyond Thurso, tucked up in the far north-east corner. I mentioned them in my last blog post covering the Inverness-to-Thurso stretch, but they’re worth repeating here so you don’t miss them.
- Dunnet Head: This is the true most northerly point of mainland Britain, sitting 2.35 miles further north than John o’ Groats. It’s wild, windswept, and beautifully remote – making you feel like you’re on another planet.
- John o’ Groats: Not actually the most northerly point, but still absolutely worth a stop for the iconic signpost and perhaps, a coffee.
- Merlin Thurso Cinema: Bit of a random one, but if you’re looking for something to do in the evenings, why not catch a film at the most northerly cinema in the UK? It’s a fun little novelty and the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring. Check out listings and ticket prices on the Merlin Thurso website.
Adventure Sports to Try Along the North Coast
- North Coast Watersports: If you’re keen to get in the water, this is the place to do it. They offer private and group surf lessons in Dunnet Bay, as well as stand-up paddleboarding (SUP). You can even join one of their surf retreats, which bundle together accommodation, food, and activities — they sound absolutely incredible.
- Farm Buggy Tours: A truly unique rural experience. You’ll jump into a buggy and be taken around a family-run farm near Melvich, meeting the animals and learning how cattle and sheep farming work.
- Golden Eagle Zip Line: Based in Durness, this is the most northerly zipline in the UK — and it’s every bit as epic as it sounds. You’ll launch off a 37-metre-high coastal cliff and soar over the stunning white sands of Ceannabeinne Beach. There’s no booking needed; just show up between 10.15am and 4pm. Just keep in mind that it usually only operates during the summer months.
Other Highlights of the Thurso to Durness NC500 Route
- Smoo Cave, Durness: This is the star attraction between Thurso and Durness — and a must-see! Smoo Cave is a huge sea and freshwater cave system, accessible year-round via a walkway that leads you right into the dramatic waterfall chamber. It’s completely free unless you opt for a guided Smoo Cave Tour.
- St Mary’s Chapel, Crosskirk: Dating back to around the 1100s, this small chapel sits in a beautifully remote spot on the coast. It’s completely free to visit year-round and is a lovely stop for anyone interested in history.
- Puffin Cove, Drumhollistan: There are no signs for Puffin Cove, so your best bet is to head to Drumhollistan. It’s home to the largest puffin colony on the UK mainland, and the best time to visit is late April to late August. Make sure you don’t forget your binoculars!
- Broch Dun Dornaigil: This Iron Age broch is a brilliant example of Scotland’s ancient drystone roundhouses, once used as defensive strongholds and community refuges. Dating back over 2,300 years, its 7-metre-tall structure is still incredibly impressive, even though most of it is now rubble.
- Balnakeil Church: Just a mile northwest of Durness, this ivy-covered ruined church sits in a quiet graveyard and has a hauntingly beautiful atmosphere. It’s a short, easy stop and definitely worth a wander around.
Bonus Detours from the Thurso to Durness Route
- Orkney and Shetland: Extend your trip north with a ferry to Orkney or connect onward to Shetland from Kirkwall. You can go on a day trip to Orkney from Scrabster – I went on this exact one and absolutely loved it!
Where to Stop for Food and Breaks Between Thurso and Durness
Cosy Cafes and Local Bites
- Coastline Coffee Shop, Melvich: A charming family-run spot serving great coffee, tea, cakes, and a selection of hot and cold bites. It’s a cosy little stop with that welcoming local feel. It’s worth noting that it’s only open on weekends.
- The Store Cafe, Bettyhill: Friendly, affordable, and consistently good — exactly what you want from a cafe. Expect tasty breakfasts, lunches, and plenty of sweet treats.
- Weavers Cafe, Tongue: This lovely cafe is known for its homemade soups, fresh sandwiches, and tempting cakes. A perfect place to refuel before hitting the road again.
- Cheese N Toasted, Durness: A small van serving seriously good gourmet cheese toasties. They get rave reviews for a reason, so definitely swing by!
- Cocoa Mountain, Durness: A must-visit for chocolate lovers. Treat yourself to one of their legendary hot chocolates or grab some handmade chocolates to take home.
Delicious Restaurants Along the Route
- Captain’s Galley Seafood Restaurant, Scrabster: It would be a shame to travel the Scottish coast without indulging in some fresh seafood. This award-winning spot is the perfect place to do it. Known for its incredible shellfish and sustainably sourced dishes, it’s a real treat for seafood lovers.
- The Strathy Inn, Strathy: A cosy, comfortable restaurant with hill views and an inviting open fire. Expect well-priced, home-cooked meals — the kind of hearty food that hits the spot after a day on the road.
- Cote Du Nord, Bettyhill: If you’re after something special, this is the fine-dining experience of the north. It’s definitely on the pricier side, but the dishes are crafted to an exceptional standard. Although it’s only open on selected Saturday evenings from March until September.
- The Craggan House Hotel, Tongue: A welcoming restaurant with coastal views, serving honest, locally sourced pub classics. It’s one of those places where you can’t really go wrong.
- Sango Sands Oasis Restaurant and Bar, Durness: I ate here during my own NC500 trip, and it’s a great stop for no-fuss, tasty food. Whether you want a quick bite or a bigger meal, they’ve got something for everyone.
Accommodation Options Near Durness and Along the Route
Budget Thurso to Durness Accommodation (£0-£100 per night)
Wee Hoose Glamping offers luxury pods set on a working croft just off the NC500. You’ll wake up to sweeping hill views and roaming sheep, while staying warm and pampered in pods with en‑suite bathrooms, kitchenettes, and comfy beds. The site also has a BBQ area, fire pit, and a delicious Scottish breakfast hamper.
Perched in the heart of the remote village of Tongue, Sutherland, The Bothy is a charming B&B with stunning views over Ben Loyal, Ben Hope, and Castle Varrich. The rooms feature en‑suite showers, free WiFi, and a full Scottish breakfast. Downstairs, you can relax by the log fire in their cosy lounge, while outside, there’s garden seating, a secure bike storage, and drying facilities.
The Durness Youth Hostel is a simple but warm Highland retreat. With free WiFi, a shared kitchen, a large seating area, and a garden with mountain views, it’s a great base for adventurers travelling the NC500. There’s also free on-site parking, laundry and drying rooms, plus a buffet breakfast to start your day.
Mid-Range Thurso to Durness Accommodation (£100-£200 per night)
Nestled on the rugged north coast of Sutherland, Bettyhill Hotel overlooks Torrisdale Bay and the river, making it a relaxing stop on your NC500 journey. Inside, rooms are modern with charming Highland touches. Guests can enjoy a welcoming bar with Scottish whisky, cocktails, darts and a games room, plus a relaxed restaurant serving fresh local cuisine.
Set in the wild Borgie River Glen, the Borgie Lodge Hotel is the perfect place to stop off for a comfortable overnight stay. Their en‑suite rooms feature super cosy beds and free WiFi, while the restaurant serves local Scottish dishes. Relax by the log fire in the lounge or explore the gardens, with EV charging and secure storage for bikes and motorbikes.
Perched on the cliffs just minutes from the iconic Smoo Cave, the family-run Smoo Cave Hotel offers modern comfort surrounded by rugged Highland scenery. It only has six rooms, so you’ll need to book fast if you want to stay here. Guests can enjoy locally sourced meals in the on-site cafe, unwind in the cosy bar, and take advantage of private parking.
High-End Thurso to Durness Accommodation (£200+ per night)
Located beside Farr Bay Beach in the quiet village of Bettyhill, Farr Bay Inn is the perfect place to unwind. The inn offers a mix of individually styled rooms and self-catering cottages — all with free WiFi and beach access.
Lundies House feels remote and entirely intentional: cosy, private, off-grid, and crafted with sustainability in mind. With minimalist interiors, elegant materials, and breathtaking surroundings, a stay here is as much about reconnecting with nature as it is about comfort and style.
Hidden on the shores of Loch Eriboll near Durness, Croft 103 offers two ultra-luxury eco-cottages — Hill Cottage and Shore Cottage. With floor-to-ceiling glass walls framing wild Highland landscapes, high-spec interiors, underfloor heating, designer stone kitchens, and even outdoor bathtubs for stargazing, this is a very special escape.
Tips for a Smooth Journey from Thurso to Durness
Here are a few handy tips to enjoy your journey from Thurso to Durness:
- Download your maps offline – Mobile signal can be patchy on the north coast. Having your Google Maps saved offline means you won’t have to rely on data to find your way.
- Pack snacks and water – There aren’t tons of shops or cafes between the main villages, so having a few bits on hand keeps you going until your next stop.
- Watch for single-track sections – Parts of the route narrow into single-track roads. Take your time, use passing places properly, and be patient with other drivers.
- Embrace the pace – Life in the far north moves at a wonderfully gentle pace, and your journey from Thurso to Durness should too. Take your time, pause at viewpoints, and enjoy cosy cafe stops along the way.
- Book Accommodation Early – If you’re planning to stay overnight anywhere along the route from Thurso to Durness, book ahead — especially during summer when the accommodation on the North Coast 500 fills up super fast!
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Kirsty x
